Friday, 16 November 2012

Nights in Vintage Velvet.

It's always lovely to get a bag full of clothes from a seller and find an absolute gem in it. I am an absolute sucker for an old piece that is in need of tlc (I have drawers groaning with "projects" that just need holes sewn up, sleeves reattached and silk sorted etc etc...). So when this little lovely came in, I couldn't resist. 



Full length, velvet and asymmetrical, I think this dates from the mid 1930's. She has since lost her silk lining, there were remnants attached to various seams which, sadly, could not be saved, but her buttons and (most) or her other fastenings are still with us. She has pointed cuffs with small buttons attached creating a slight leg'o mutton look. There are pulls on many seams, re-sewn arms and a hem that had obviously been stepped energetically on at some point...but I LOVE all this. What has she seen? As I was sewing up the hem, I could almost imagine a glamorous lady stumbling out of her taxi with a beau in tow, giggling hysterically as she unhooks her shoe. And how had the arm been damaged? Reaching for that champagne saucer or a too energetic dance move on a marble dance floor? Perhaps our beau had become too amorous for his own good and treated to a forceful slap across the chops...

 The label inside says "Marshall & Snellgrove, Vere St & Oxford St W1" and then, the best bit, "Tea Gown Dept"...Oh my! Doesn't that just conjure up images of ladies shopping for just the right gown for entertaining at home? 



Tea dresses have been around since the late 19th century and were generally kept to be worn at home, but could be worn to dinner, if the lady was dining informally with family. They were usually very comfortable and made from sumptuous fabrics that hung well, but were not constrictive. This one fits the bill perfectly as it is a beautiful light velvet and simply fastens at the hip. Perfect for lounging on that chaise in front of an open fire...

We see the Marshall& Snelgrove label infrequently and the pieces are always beautifully made. This is no surprise as they were one of the only stores to house a couturier workshop that ran alongside their ready to wear pieces. Quality of workmanship was paramount to James Marshall and John Snelgrove and that is obvious from their, still wearable, pieces.
Sadly, the store was forced to merge with Debenhams&Freebody in 1919 when it was hit by financial woes after the 14-18 war. This merger continued amicably for 50 years until, in 1973, Debenhams finally removed James' and John's names, and Marshall&Snellgrove were no more. Luckily for us, they left behind beautiful pieces like this for us to treasure for some time to come...
xx   

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